The best mountain meal I ever had

West Virginia’s best restaurants keep things natural — no shortcuts or trickery, just honest flavor.

The best recipes let fresh, quality ingredients speak for themselves. Just ask our chefs and restaurateurs! Their insights reveal why Mountain State cuisine keeps visitors coming back for second helpings.

Secret Sandwich Society

Soggy wraps, pasty white bread, greasy grilled cheese: most of the time, sandwiches get short shrift. They’re more convenient than glamorous, and most of us eat them with low expectations.

But at the Secret Sandwich Society, humble burgers and subs take all the glory. They have nothing to hide; superb ingredients add all the flavor.

“Everything’s all fresh and gourmet,” said Lewis Rhinehart, owner. “We make everything in house, even the ketchup. Literally. Everything except the bread and cheese.”

Even then, the tart sourdough and springy baguettes come from a local bakery.

Lewis doesn’t take shortcuts, even though that would be easy. Instead, every element from house pickles to garlic mayonnaise becomes a star in its own right.

“We make everything as high end as we can,” Lewis said.

His approach pays respect not only to food and customers, but also West Virginia’s heritage. It’s a combination that’s paying off, too.

“Right now, Appalachian food is hot,” Lewis said.

He also mentions how morels, a mushroom many West Virginians harvest, sell for $200 a pound in New York. Wild ramp onions fetch high prices out of state, too.

Though such costs seem crazy, they indicate how much Americans are willing to pay for seasonal produce. Lewis can understand that; one of his favorite restaurants in South Carolina cooks freshly caught fish. The owners also gather crabs and oysters themselves.

He thinks the Mountain State has similar appeal for out-of-state gourmands. More restaurants are working with farmers, and larger numbers of people are willing to travel long distances for fresh flavor.

Lewis also believes West Virginia’s colorful past enhances its farm-to-table meals, too.

“Our food has a lot of history; a lot of our cuisine came from necessity and what was available,” he said. “Plus, we have lots of ethnic groups here: African-American, Polish, Italian. All of this influences Appalachian cuisine.”

Consider the pepperoni roll, a spicy, doughy West Virginia treat invented by Italian immigrants. There’s also pimento cheese, another mountain classic. It’s a Depression-era spread made from peppers, cream and cheddar, although you can always add spices and garlic for extra amperage.

Lewis has no illusions, however. “It’s a poor man’s food,” he said, laughing.

Still, restaurants like his go beyond mere comfort food. Secret Sandwich Society’s “Pimento Cheese Fries” come with homemade seasonings and local cheddar. You can even try ‘em with crumbled bacon and chopped jalapenos.

“Pimento cheese, like so many other West Virginia favorites, has been elevated to a higher standard,” Lewis said.

If you visit the Secret Sandwich Society, you’ll probably reach the same conclusion.

The Station

Almost everything at Fayetteville’s newest restaurant comes from southern West Virginia. Before The Station opened, local artisans sewed the upholstery while metal smiths and carpenters made everything sleek and modern. Neighborhood farmers have contributed meat and produce since day one, too.

“The Station stands out from any other place in the area because we are a 98 percent from-scratch kitchen,” said Chef Jeffrey Toth.

He creates original appetizers, salads and entrees with all the devotion of an artist. His chosen medium: ingredients harvested from nearby farms. If The Station can’t find ingredients close to home, it looks for organic farms further afield.

“We are operating a culture that has yet to exist in this food desert,” Jeffrey said. “[The Station] buys local, which lets us get fresh, top-quality food while supporting the local economy, all while providing some tasty good-for-you food for our customers. It’s the circle of life.”

If you slide into a booth at The Station and pick up a menu, expect gourmet choices from appetizers on down. Typical delicacies include an artisan cheese plate, pub burger (made with Swift Level beef) and Guinness-braised carnita quesadilla. Fayetteville locals will recognize some of the ingredients, too. The Station’s beef stew features Bridge Brew Works’ IPA; so does its seasonal ice cream.

As you may have guessed, there’s no set theme to the menu; Jeffrey’s imagination and Golden State roots break gastronomic bounds.

“My spin is coming from California and taking chances on cooking and combining various ingredients for the past 11 years,” he said.

No doubt about it, Jeffrey knows his way around the kitchen. His signature invention, a yolk mix, combines pickled turnips, mustard seeds, red onions, crispy shallots, sweet hot chili glaze, garlic chips and sumac.

“They are sinful!” he laughs.

Still, Jeffrey has a definite favorite— for now. “The pork chop with Brussels sprouts and mustard pear butter. It’s simple, screams fall-winter, and utilizes almost 100 percent local ingredients.”

He appreciates The Station’s dedication to seasonality, too. Produce that’s grown naturally really does taste better. What’s more, vegetables and fruit don’t have to be shipped across time zones. If it’s currently growing, The Station will order it. Otherwise, you’ll have to wait till next season.

Where’s your favorite place to dine in West Virginia?

This post was last updated on March 11, 2024